Nine Trades - Clare Thornton

January 2011: One last journey...

2011-01-13T13:34:00.009Z

...before the Trench heads back home to Dundee.

Following a brief stay in Bristol where the coat was on show at BV Studios Open Studio weekender

http://bvstudios.blogspot.com/

I'll soon be wearing the coat to Birmingham for Trevor Pitt's Knitting Salon event which he is hosting at N E S T Gallery next week. Trevor recently exhibited a rather special flock of knitted benches at N E S T:

http://digbeth.org/2010/09/page/2/

Trevor is hosting an informal gathering of artists and makers.
He sent us the following invitation:

"To stimulate some lively chat it would be great if you could either wear or bring something that is related to one of your projects in 2010. I have invited Joey Vivo, a young photography student, to join us for the evening to document the event and it would be great to get a group photo of us in our finery. I'm sure we will look as amazing at they did at Madame Geoffrin's!" No prices for guessing what i'll be wearing!

A Reading in the Salon of Mme Geoffrin, 1755

Trench Coat on Tour

2010-09-03T16:41:00.004+01:00

Exciting news! The trenchcoat has just left the McManus Museum Dundee to begin its mini European tour of textile trade fairs this month with Nine Trades project partners Halley Stevensons

First up Italy for the Milano Unica then on to Paris for Premiere Vision.
Molto Bene & Tres Bien!

The Final Gathering!

2010-07-26T09:40:00.008+01:00

A selection of images from the day. Lewis captured some great moments and I wanted to share some Trench related shots from the installation in the Visual Research Centre gallery space, the 'social stroll' I lead with a small group through the town and into The Mcmanus museum- where the Trench is now exhibited.....The Trench may go on a few journeys yet so watch this space!

Trenched up and heading out of DCA

Trades chat outside the Tradeshouse Bar
brief downpour followed by bright sunshine!Curious onlookers!
Tools of the Trade pocketsOn Reform Street, Grant Mitchell welcomes us to
Cooper & McKenzieGrant's scirrors depicted on the trench
coat lining designTrades talk in the Howff
Linda Stirling the tailor has just joined us!
Arriving at The McManus - Lives & Landscape exhibitPlacing the Trench Coat in its new display

Sharing the Tools of Your Trade
gathered from the group

Thanks everyone! What a day what a journey....

Pic of the week

2010-07-15T18:08:00.006+01:00

Look out for a special window display at Cooper & McKenzie, Reform Street this saturday.
Classic archive images are to be displayed alongside selected tools of the tailoring trade.

Watch out too for a woman strolling along Reform Street wearing a very special Trench Coat!
Made by local seamstress Linda Stirling the coat has been produced from cotton waxed by Dundee's Halley Stevensons who have a top quality tagline:
"Proofing fabric against the elements since 1864"

Trench Coat pics to follow watch this space!

Screenprint snapshots

2010-07-06T13:33:00.023+01:00

Some photos from our time screen printing the silk lining and cotton drill for the Nine Trades Trench. Thanks to fellow Nine Trader, David Yu for dropping in to document part of this process.

With the hands-on expertise of Fine Art Print Studio Technicians (Artists Mark Hunter & Peter Yearworth), who incidentally provided top banter, strange flavoured coffee, audio backdrop by Talking Heads and even a surprise birthday cake (Carrie's Gran's top recipe!) we had a grand couple days....

Painting out the block separation - Peter applying final touches
We all took a corner and painted inwards - famous last words 'It'll only take 30mins'!

Some hours later....

... the exposed screen!

Lining up layers

Nervous glances!Nice nails by the way Carrie!

Flooding the screen with the ink
Mark's Screenprint Shuffle - sliding foot manoeuvrings off camera!
Moment of truth - How's it looking? Niiiice
Clean Up Operation Reviewing the results of our labour

Good days work!

Pic of the week!

2010-06-16T18:05:00.003+01:00

I was happy to stumble across this photograph today during an on-line hunt for a cloth measuring tape. Taken in 1950 it shows a London seamstress with the tools of her trade. This image, one of a set of 252 black and white photographs assembled by the photographer, was shown in an exhibition at the J. Paul Getty Museum last year called "Irving Penn - Small Trades"

Apprentice Appointed

2010-05-28T17:32:00.005+01:00

Announcing a very warm welcome to my Nine Trades Apprentice Carrie Ferguson - a third year Textile Design student at DJCAD (soon to enter her final year). Carrie and I have been working hard during the past weeks developing ideas and producing test swatches for new designs. These fabric designs are inspired by the conversations and encounters I've had with Dundee textile trade workers during my Nine Trades research trips. You may remember for instance I've been asking people about the tools of their trade. I wanted to translate this unique collection of tools into a Nine Trades textile design and a bepoke garment and Carrie is actively helping me on realizing this project. The Textile Detective concept just took a new turn....more on that very soon!

Carrie showing me some recent examples of her work at out first Nine Trades meeting.

Drive-in-tastic!

2010-05-28T16:57:00.005+01:00

Although sore wrists threw a spanner into the blogging works for a while there - I've never the less been busy with Nine Trade business.

For instance I couldn't resist the urge to get dressed up and head down to a very special Drive-In Movie night in Dundee a few weeks back.

As part of his work at the Michelin Factory, fellow Nine Trades artist Chris Dyson, hosted a drive-in for workers at the plant. 'Grease' was the flick and this chick wasted no time on arrival in town dashing down to her trusted Dundee costume suppliers 'Utopia' to select the appropriate outfit.

Blogging

2010-05-05T15:20:00.001+01:00

Blogging temporarily interrupted due to wrist injury. Activities will resume soon

Textile Tales

2010-04-10T16:16:00.003+01:00

I was intrigued by an image in today's Guardian Guide of a new work by artist Naori Priestly. Currently on show at Aspex Gallery, Portsmouth the show is called Under the Table, and this piece specifically is entitled Follow the Yellow Jacket. Its described as a 'sweetly subversive work' - If you look closely skulls and kitchen knives have been craftily worked into the design.
I like a garment that tells a tale or two don't you?!

Watch this space as a garment idea of my own is gently simmering away...

Old Friends Fresh Trends

2010-04-01T12:42:00.003+01:00

When I was across in Glasgow I was thrilled to catch up with an old friend Marina Maclean. She's a fashion designer who runs her own couture wedding dress business but confesses she is 'coming out' as a menswear designer! And boy is she coming out in style! Marina just designed the suit Pete Doherty wore to perform in @ Paris Fashion Week - The Telegraph's Hilary Alexander christened him a 'style icon' in it!
Check out the article:

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/7404513/Pete-Doherty-becomes-a-style-icon-at-Paris-Fashion-Week.html

And Marina's fashion blog:
http://stylescanner.blogspot.com/

Reading Materials

2010-03-31T14:16:00.005+01:00

Currently enjoying...

Elizabeth Wilson's
Adorned in Dreams

Malcolm Barnard's
Fashion as Communication

Suit Talk

2010-03-25T11:49:00.006Z

I just spent an enjoyable hour with Jim who works at Cooper & McKenzie's menswear on Reform Street. After reading 'The Way We Wore - A life in threads' by Robert Elms I was really keen to get Jim's take on gents fashion trends and tailoring, drawing on his experience of menswear spanning some 3 decades. It was great to talk to someone with such knowledge and enthusiasm.

We talked about favourite pieces such as this classic tweed jacket made from Borders Tweed - a really beautiful cloth.

This jacket might be a favorite with some guy maybe 30/40+yrs - so as a contrast Jim selected some suits for the younger market. Some fresh pinstripes with a flash of a bold lining fabric that said 'wall street wide boy' to me (tell tale signs of my age and style preferences I suppose!) but are immensely popular with the 18-25yr market. Check the linings on these:

We spoke about 1960's & 1970's 2 and 3 button single breasted suits and a contemporary penchant for single breasted suits with a double breasted lapel! Crazy times - with the David Beckham's of this world to be seen sporting such bold pieces of tailoring.

As we moved around the store the beautiful tweeds kept drawing me in and I found myself repeatedly pulling out jackets made by the same label - Falabella an Italian company that interestingly Cooper & McKenzie have sole license to sell in the UK. In my opinion really stylish threads. Apparently these wool cashmere coats and their leisure/sports jackets are hugely popular - classic, sharp and a wee bit cheeky in one, I was quite taken!

I think my personal favorite of the day though was this classic tweed (definite possibilities for the Urban County Dandy if worn appropriately! - You can trust me - I've been known to sport an outfit my friends described as Tyrolian Urban! I'll post up a pic of that sometime!)

This is an example of Cooper & McKenzie's sourcing a great tweed and having maybe only 14 jackets made up. This is as close to bespoke as I reckon most might get - a limited edition jacket made of the finest quality Scottish cloth at a modest price. My partner is going to join me in Dundee during my May trip and we've talked about visiting the store as I'm uber curious to know what he thinks of these and the other jackets and suits.

I asked Jim about waistcoats too and was intrigued to hear that they are just getting a feel for the three piece suit again! Top style tips as he showed me some rather lush deep mustard doe skin(pure wool) waistcoats that they've just had made up especially and are doing rather well.

I must thank Jim for being so generous with his time and taking me through all the types of suits Cooper & McKenzie stock and the types of gent they serve. We were definitely of a similar mind as we spoke about everyday 'costumes' and how what we wear plays a key role in our everyday 'performances' at work with colleagues, at home with family & friends - as we go about our public/social interactions.

Hanging Out @ Halleys

2010-03-23T17:37:00.018Z

In the past weeks I've enjoyed several return visits to Baltic Works to meet staff in Halley Stevensons Canteen and also spend some time at their Mill Shop.

On Mondays I've been taking my lunch with Kenny, Tommy, Norrie & Steve. You know, if I added up the years they've been collectively working in the textile trade it'd be around 100yrs!
They've been friendly hosts - just as well! The tools of the trade they laid on the canteen table were knives for cutting the textiles they're working on. They are apparently standard factory issue but I noticed a few personal customizations (reminded me of the way Grant @ Cooper & McKenzie customized his own scissors too) So here are the tools of Norrie's & Tom's trade.

Kenny whose been in & out of the textile trade his whole life (specializing in Dying but as he says now everyone multitasks here at Halley Stevensons) and I got to talking about what I might do with all the stories and Tools of the Trade objects I've been collecting. Rather than making a book I talked about working all the elements into a textile piece. He mentioned the Bayeux Tapestry (1066 and all that) which I thought was a really useful way of thinking about textiles telling stories. A few ideas brewing inspired by my encounters here at Halley's....

Steve & Norrie took me onto the factory floor to show me how a Stenter worked. This huge machine dealing with upto 5000 metre rolls of fabric at a time, wet treats then dries the fabric prior to its being waxed. At each stage of the textile's journey through the factory it is checked against a Continuity Log Sheet - loving the log sheet! The guys i'm sure thought I was a bit odd taking snaps of it but I want to understand the different stages & I guess I like seeing different visual methods and work processes.

I was totally pleased I got to go back to the Lab!

There I met Graham who is the Dye House Manager. He kindly took me through the lab kit he uses for dyeing and waxing test samples - mixing & matching shades and checking waterproofness etc. Graham like several of the other guys used to work at the Stevensons Mill which was apparently up near Hilltown before the businesses merged and moved down to the Baltic Works site. The tools of Graham's trade clearly revolve around Dyes - giving it some thought he chose upon the Rota Dyer machine - swatches of textile and liquid dye are put into screw tight metal tubes and fixed to rotate in vats of hot water - So pretty much what it says on the tin I reckon!

I have to say I had a really great afternoon at The Mill Shop with Linda and Vanessa. As it was Mothering Sunday the shop was pretty quiet so we had time to talk. Vanessa actually started with Halley Stevensons as a Shift Dyer 14 years ago. She studied textile technologies at Gallashields College. At that time of her joining, the factory was working around the clock on 3 shifts (6am-2pm/2pm-10pm/10pm-6am) 24/5 rather than 24/7 - the buisiness has since downscaled/downsized on all fronts of production and personnel.

Linda on the other hand has a background in interior decoration and for years worked in the family business Duncans Wallpapers. She's been busy with soft furnishings (as a Curtain Maker) and also undertakes alterations/seamstress work as well. She did a stint of Bridal wear commissions but found that a bit much when several brides-to-be failed to mention they were pregnant at the outset and would present themselves for a later fitting with quite a tummy and not enough fabric/dress to go round it! Stressful seamstressing!
I reckon Linda has a fair few tools of the trade - an overlocker for speedy neat seams (I really need one of the these!). And I was also tickled by an embroidery machine she had in the shop - I think you'll see why (seem to do a fair bit of this myself and I don't mean embroidery!)

Whilst Vanessa considered that probably a pen for note making and planning was a key item for her tool kit Linda's dressmaking scissors were a constant in her bag of tricks.

Both shared some fascinating insights about their work experiences and our conversation in between customers sparked off some creative ideas that I'd really like to pick up again in subsequent visits.

Vanessa recounted some quirky orders she had handled when working in a supervisory/admin role over the textile production side of things. For example orders for jute for animal coffins and eco-funerals and canvas for lining ballet shoes. Just goes to show how diverse were the uses of textiles coming out of the Halley Stevensons works in years gone by. I think Kenny or Tommy also mentioned something about the factory producing black-out fabric during WW2 and certainly 1000's & 1000's of metres of black textile for the mining industry. Too thin for coal sacks apparently so the textile detective in me wants to track down what that material had been produced/used for! Any clue?...

As mentioned Halley Stevensons key focus today is quality waxed cotton for the outerwear clothing market and as Vanessa and I discussed there definitely seems to be a re-surgence of interest in waxed cotton for fashion over utility. This is very much of interest to me and I'm really enjoying my research process with the team at Halley Stevensons - I'm rather hoping something tangible might materialize out of this - watch this space!

Archival Matters

2010-03-15T21:51:00.009Z

A visit to the city archives revealed all manner of interesting printed matter.
Iain Flett, Dundee City Archivist showed me several editions of the Trades and Professions Directory listing for instance all the tailors and drapers and where they were trading in the city. This entry comes from the 1948-1949 volume.

I also really enjoyed this advertisement from the Dundee Directory 1914-1915 edition which speaks of "the fine taste displayed by the gentlemen of Dundee".

It felt pretty incredible to be able to handle the Tailor's 'Lockit Book' - a thick leather bound book with metal lock clasp which contained the hand written entries of Master Tailors since 1577. The book contained entries right up until the 1980's.
What happened then I wonder - did they go digital?!

Iain revealed that the tool of his trade was the Archive Box - having worked in an archive myself I can vouch for that.

Whilst we're on the subject of boxes/folders/acid free papers & envelopes etc etc - For anyone with the slightest hint of a stationary (or storage) fetish I would highly recommend the Preservation Equipment Limited (PEL) catalogue!

Costume Capers

2010-03-15T21:01:00.012Z

On my way back to the Art College I dropped by the Utopia Costumes shop on Perth Road. I'd chatted to Kirsty on the phone a few times and exchanged several emails so it was good to finally meet up in person. Julia was also working that day and we three got to chatting about favourite costumes. When I asked about their favourite outfit both replied in unison 'Marie Antoinette'! Let's take a look then - Julie didn't take much persuading to put it on. The pleated ribbon detail looked really good and the fabric had a pleasing weight to it. Give us a twirl!

When it came to the tools of their trade Kirsty reached for a copy of the make-up artists bible - a 'How-To' on creating convincing wounds caught my eye! It made me think of an art work by Simon Costin (Scar 2) in which he is covered head to foot in fake wounds, cuts and sores of every description you can imagine - It makes for compulsive viewing!

Talking of viewing Julie told me the tool of her trade was her eyes - watching and reading people, assessing peoples body/personality types and pairing the customer with the right outfit. Both mentioned people skills as a crucial tool (Gordon mentioned the same, I remember - key to every Costumer perhaps!)

Cooper & McKenzie

2010-03-01T08:20:00.016Z

My research into Dundee's tailoring scene led me to Cooper & McKenzie (est. 1874). Its situated on Reform Street (which was known as the Saville Row of the north by the way).

I was welcomed to the store by Grant Mitchell who runs this family business. Grant Mitchell's grandfather took over the business in 1946 (combining McKenzie with the local Furrier Coopers and the Ltd Co. was born). As I stepped into the office I saw all manner of objects and images that spoke of the Mitchell's history of clothing the city's mensfolk. These scissors for instance sitting on the desk (belonged to his granddad - still in use - and if you look closely you can see them in the B&W photo below!).

Grant had a leather case full of archival materials which he's been wisely gathering over the years. Collecting Cooper & McKenzie newspaper advertisements, letters, labels and logos, photos of the store and its staff over the years.

I really enjoyed seeing the shift in layout styles, fonts, suit cuts and styles. There were a couple of real James Bond's in there (Roger Moore stylin'!)

In one newspaper ad you can see three tailors pictured sitting/sewing on the floor - the caption next to it reads:
"16 workers put 18 hours handwork into every McKenzie Tailor-Made Overcoat - English Velour & Heavy Scotch Saxony Coatings, full lined Art Satin price £5 5/-"

Grant was tremendously generous with his time and we sat and chatted in the store's Courtesy Room amongst tartan sample books, rails of kilts and suit jackets. Joining his father in the company in 1985 he talked me through the many changes and challenges of running a menswear business - knowing and understanding your market, focusing on your key strengths and expertise in the field. He described the massive shop refit that happened in the 90's and took me on a tour around the building taking in the suit storage space, alteration room and two sales floors.
Lots of information to digest and Grant has kindly invited me back to spend more time with the archive and chat with the staff.

I asked Grant what the tools of his trade were - from two pockets he produced the items he always carried with him: specially adapted scissors (a customized beveled edge - tip passed on by his grandfather), tape measure and tailors chalk - Grant then presented me with a fresh piece of chalk as a memento of my visit - classic triangular shape with the maker H.H. Hancock's logo pressed into its centre.

All the world's a stage - an afternoon @ Utopia Costumes

2010-02-28T14:17:00.010Z

I'd been hearing from a variety of sources that the Utopia Costume warehouse in Forfar was a treat for any costume addict. It really was an Aladdin's cave of treasures.

It was snowing like crazy in the hills as i took the 22A cross country bus via Glamis over to Forfar. This must be a really scenic route on a clear day but it was fair blowing a blizzard this Wednesday.

Gordon Philip (who co-directs the business with Ewan Campbell) and I had met briefly before at Utopia's Perth Street shop in Dundee way back in October '09 (when i made my first research trip). It was excellent to meet him again and learn more about their costume business and news of recent projects. Utopia premiered their latest costume project Beauty & the Beast at The Kings, Edinburgh - Utopia's team produced all the costumes and full accessories for a cast of 70 performers. During my visit this show was being boxed up in large crates in the loading bay to go out on tour.

Gordon and I chatted about the skills, time and techniques that are needed to produce the costume pieces in their collection - knowledge of tailoring, beading/embroidery, millinery, corsetry, constructing hidden structural supports, harnesses and padding. The pieces also have to be versatile in terms of their sizing. Often the costumes have adjustable panels and lacing to be drawn in/loosened depending on the performers shape and size as the costumes are hired out to different theatres and companies. Any guesses on which show this wrack of costumes belongs to?

Staff were popping in and out to get hot coffees and teas as it was a chilly day and the warehouse was chilly too. I'm looking forward to a second visit, hanging out by the kettle for some further creative chat. The best office conversations happen by the 'water cooler' they say - well at Utopia I reckon it'll be in the kitchen area near the shelves of wigs.

Space is a premium and the warehouse is full to bursting with approx 25,000 costumes and accessories. No space is left unused - check out these beautiful feather fans over the doorway in the accessories department.

Gordon showed me one of his favourite pieces a military jacket with tails - naval possibly? With incredible hand embroidered metal thread work. This was a real collectors piece and also weighed a tonne (well quite a few kilos). After a while you can get rather overwhelmed by the rails and rails of costumes. Perhaps it's a bit like testing too many perfumes at once - you have to take your time with these things. So, I look forward to going back there and having another session pulling out a few gems and also asking each member of staff if they have a particular favourite and why.

I asked Gordon about the tools of his trade - he said that being good with people was a vital skill to have in your Costumers 'Kit Bag'. I argee with him there. Also he spoke about his particular interest in structural props and harness making - so a harness was a key work related object or tool of his trade.

Well a hugely enjoyable few hours and the first meeting of many with Utopia I hope....

Halley Stevensons waxedcotton.com

2010-02-27T16:31:00.014Z

I love a good factory tour and Halley Stevensons certainly didn't disappoint.

To begin with Andy Young kindly gave me a brief introduction to the company's history and relatively recent shift in focus towards waxed cotton production. He showed me the company's latest product lines - representatives of the company are just back from Paris & Milan trade shows where they were presenting their diverse waxed cotton and waxed silk products to designers of outdoor wear.

Infact here's a garment test/sample Andy showed me that menswear designer Nigel Cabourn (whose lines are often inspired by vintage military apparel) produced with Halley Stevenson waxed cotton.

The rolls of fabric had such a variety of weights and textures - they are definitely materials to feel and scrunch up and wax treated cottons just get better with wearing and aging - a bit like a leather jacket or old leather chair they mold and fit to the user. The waxed silk felt incredible to touch and the Beeswax treated cloth was a firm favourite.

Ever the nerd I was totally intrigued by the Laboratory! This is where fabric dyes and wax mixes are developed. Sadly the lab team were away the day I visited so I do hope I can catch them next visit. I wonder if I'll get to wear a white lab coat and goggles (yes please!)

Andy showed me the vast machines that dye, wash and wax the huge rolls of cotton textile.
The machines were all a stunning 1950's style minty green colour! (freshly painted Andy reported) Its an impressive operation which the company are understandably keen to keep a trade secret so no pictures of those textile treatment processes! Halley Stevenson is only one of four companies world wide that produces waxed cotton cloth so they are a highly specialised niche industry. The noise of the machinery meant talking wasn't so easy so I nodded and smiled with staff. I'm going to return in a few weeks to meet folk in the works Canteen where hopefully we'll get a chance to chat over lunch.

Part of my tour took in the factory Mill Shop which sells a great variety of furnishing fabrics and interiors textiles. There I met Linda and Nancy, who as well as working for Halley Stevensons work freelance as curtain makers and dressmakers (we exchanged business cards). I'll be returning to the Mill Shop soon to spend a little time between customer sales and enquiries exchanging stories and work experiences. Linda's tool of her trade are a "decent pair of scissors". I think amongst the tailors that's gonna come up again and again.

Apparently a number of Costumers use some of the shops bold, heavier weight fabrics to great effect on stage. I can see that and I also have my eye on a roll of fabric that could work well for a sculptural skirt I've in the pipeline!

Look forward to coming back to get to learn more about the company and the people at Halley Stevensons. Thanks to Andy, Linda and Nancy for a warm welcome and an openous to the project.

Getting to know you....

2010-02-27T15:35:00.007Z

Earlier this week I spent a really enjoyable few days in Dundee having meetings with a number of textile trade related businesses.

But first to get myself in the mood I met up with Innes Duffus, Archivist for the Nine Incorporated Trades of Dundee. He was hugely entertaining and a font of knowledge about the Nine Trades. Over a couple of coffees and cakes we chatted about all manner of things trade related and otherwise.

Innes spent his mechanical engineering apprenticeship at Wolseley Cars in Birmingham and as a Brummie lass myself we both enjoyed a chat about our old stomping grounds in the West Mids...

Both of us enjoyed a good natter taking all sorts of interesting digressions and I also left our meeting with a pile of reading to boot (Homework!) - about Weaving, the Linen Industry, Jute (of course!), the crafts of Dyeing, Tailoring and Baking.
It should perhaps be noted that in addition to a passion for cloth/textile my passion for cake comes close second! I've to check out Clarks (all night) Bakery apparently, and Innes recommended Goodfellow & Steven on Union Street - next trip for sure.

Anyway - as I'm hoping to collect trade related stories and examples of folks tools of their trade as I take a journey through Dundee's historical and contemporary working culture, I asked Innes to get me started:

The object or tool Innes most proudly associated with his trade skills in mechanical engineering (for the car industry) was a Van Norman Boring Bar - for re-drilling engine cylinders.

The tale about workers bringing in pots to gather fresh honey dripping through the ceiling rafters in a textile mill in Blairgowrie is, as they say, another story!!
Thanks Innes for all your top tales and tips - more next trip.

Artist WLTM

2010-02-27T10:59:00.003Z

http://www.dundee.ac.uk/pressreleases/2010/prfeb10/art.htm

The Way We Wore - A life in threads

2010-02-08T12:50:00.007Z

"A summary of everythings that's happened to men's clothes in Britain over the last thirty years...should be read by anyone who believes that clothes are tools for living"

Seasonal Headwear

2010-01-02T12:28:00.012Z

Spike Island Staff Christmas Night Out!
(I work at Spike Island Artspace part time as a Gallery Steward/Receptionist)

Runner-up Prize for the Invigilators Party Hat Competition goes to:........

Clare - sporting a fetching home crafted hat/fascinator inspired by "She Who Presents"
(solo show of work by Glasgow based artist Clare Stephenson at Spike July-Sept 09)
In first place, Simon - with his Sir Cliff inspired creation! (no photo of that hat sadly)

Recent Antics - Craftivism

2009-12-21T10:19:00.023Z

I want to update you on another project I've been working on.

DIY Shades of Bristol is being presented as part of Craftivism - which opened last week at Arnolfini, Bristol.

DIY Shades of Bristol (commissioned by Relational) is an ongoing city-wide colour mapping project produced through a collaborative process:

I've been asking local residents the following questions:

"What's your shade of Bristol?
What colour do you see when you think of home?"

Collecting participants hand drawn responses on my trips across the city, I gathered these responses to produce a limited edition DIY Shades of Bristol swatch book (designed with Dane Watkins). Over the course of two or three months I carried my 'What's Your Shade of Bristol?' cards with me in my rucksack along with packs of pencils, crayons, felts, pastels that people could use to create their shade (its'a large backpack!). I worked with each person to invent the name for the shade and took a note of their postcode - the start of the colour mapping process.

The resulting swatch book is currently on show at the Arnolfini, with a small selection of paint match pots inspired by these unique personal shades. Gallery visitors can also now cast their Vote for the Shade of Bristol!
I've been supported in the paint mixing process by a superb small company based in Cornwall called Naturepaint. They promote traditional paint (milk based recipes and natural pigments) without any of the toxic nasties and I've been mixing up bespoke shades using a range of pigments in my kitchen over the past month. Its kitchen alchemy - really great fun. In early January I'm hosting an eco-paint mixing day at Arnolfini. Anyone can drop by and mix up their own shade of Bristol and take a wee DIY Shades of Bristol matchpot away with them.

The conversations with participants during the gathering process often turned to Do-It-Yourself, hobbyism and the sharing of skills so I decided to collect peoples' personal DIY Tops Tips and share them via the swatch book (a selection appear at the back of the book).

The meetings took place in cafes, kitchens and community spaces across Bristol and its wider environs including the Community Cafe at Wicklea Youth & Community Centre and Bradley Stoke Library & Leisure Centre. I also set up a stall one day in The Mall, Broadmead Shopping Centre, Bristol.

The opening event at Arnolfini last week went really well. There was a great turn out of participants, friends/family and craftists - folks were interacting with the works that included all kinds of craftivist skill sharing around food, knots, knitting, clothing...Not everyday you can swing in a hammock made by the West Country branch of the International Guild of Knot Tyers and read about Macramé and the like. That's a project initiated by Glasgow based artist Mandy McIntosh by the way - it was great to meet her through Craftivism.

I want to send out my special thanks again to the 60 residents who shared their Shade of Bristol:

Football Blue - Peter Brown/Light Storm - Masaya Powers-Duff/Bristol Blue Glass - Tiffany Denny/Just Before It Gets Dark - Ellen/Cool Midnight - Toni Hawkes/Not Cold Blue - Emma Base/Sky Blue - Barry Watts/ New Wall - Andrew Docker/Patchway Blue - Janice Brice/Calming Blue - Jackie Keen/ Brislington Sky Blue - Fiona Ford/Blue Bristol Morning - Jenni D. Bradshaw/ Totterdown Blue - Stephanie Gilbert/ Easton Green - Ben Pollock/Oppressive Green - Marko/Forest Green - Peter Stuart/Field Green - Sheila Brown/Leaf Green - Pat Venn/Green Park - Lynn Ellis/Teacup Green - Clare Thornton/Babygrow Aqua - Jennifer Davis/Putting Green - Den Marshman/Life - Maxine/Sea Green - Amie/Melamine - Angela Piccini/A Good Day - Kenny Monger/Three - Oliver Betts/ Sunshine Yellow - Chris & Neil/Joy - Theresa Day/Warm Seamills - Stephen/Sandstone - John Collis/Harbour Day - Michael Parsons/Pale Cream Magnolia - Anne Booker/Hint Of... - Richard Venn/Wall Colour - Rick/ Beige (No It Isn’t Yes It Is) - David Baker/Hot Air Balloon Fire - Angela Smith/Rising Star - Sulekh Chand/ Sunset Over Sandy Park - Emma Weyman/Warm Glow - D.Watkins/ Sunset Glow - Regina Siu/Warm Neutrals - Angeline Hawkins/Red Silt Terracotta - Ruth Holdsworth/Dining Fire - Steve Pearce/Acacia and Toast Rust - Claire Abrahams/ Autumnal - Jacky Sutton/Autumnal Orange Tint - Christine Clothier/ Deep Ruby Red - Pam Wreyford/ Scarlet - Michael Booker/ Home Strip - William Marsh/Royal Red - Stan Claridge/ Rich Red - Patricia Warren/City Red - Kevin White/Asma Rose - Fatehia/Baby Pink - Kerry Hillier/Friendly Chaos Pink - Kate Monger/Schmauve - Nick/Dark Rich Purple - Stella Lee/Chocolate - Emma Hogg/Smell of Coffee - Geoff Cox

Introduction

2009-12-05T15:50:00.000Z

Welcome to my new blog.
I'll be using it as a space to share ideas, images, links and updates relating to my Nine Trades of Dundee project.

To provide a bit of background detail:
I'm an artist and seamstress by trade. For me they are portable skills and I have traveled (fairly) far and wide with my artist kit bag to earn, learn, produce work, pick up skills and trade a few in return. Currently living in Bristol, I'm really looking forward to my monthly trips to Dundee (on the Caledonian Sleeper).

For the Nine Trades project I'm keen to learn about the textile trade and meet a variety of trades people working in Dundee. During my initial research trip in October '09 I visited several great tailors, costume and textile shops and outfitters. In the new year I'm hoping to set up creative links with a number of these shops, studios and businesses.

I've been working as an artist for about 10 years and use a wide range of media including performance, sculpture, video, photography, print and conversation. I've been making clothes on and off for about 20 years and textile elements often work their way into my projects one way or another. I've developed projects for a variety of spaces - from galleries to community centres, museums to market squares and I like to create social events where people can take part in the creative process. For me the involvement of others is a vital part of the work.

So what is the work? As a collector of stories, objects and curiosities I create installations, limited edition objects, bookworks and live events. Collecting and curiosity are key words for me. I'm interested in social collaborations and social histories and am fascinated by public and private collections/archives. My work investigates the process of capturing personal and collective narratives and testing how these materials can be distilled into art works for public presentation.
For some recent projects examples visit:
www.clare-thornton.blogspot.com

So Dundee awaits! I'm really excited to respond to the people and places I meet. Taking on the role as a roving artist and tailor traveling through the City collecting stories, style tips and trades secrets upon my way....