Archival Matters

A visit to the city archives revealed all manner of interesting printed matter.
Iain Flett, Dundee City Archivist showed me several editions of the Trades and Professions Directory listing for instance all the tailors and drapers and where they were trading in the city. This entry comes from the 1948-1949 volume.

I also really enjoyed this advertisement from the Dundee Directory 1914-1915 edition which speaks of "the fine taste displayed by the gentlemen of Dundee".


It felt pretty incredible to be able to handle the Tailor's 'Lockit Book' - a thick leather bound book with metal lock clasp which contained the hand written entries of Master Tailors since 1577. The book contained entries right up until the 1980's.
What happened then I wonder - did they go digital?!



Iain revealed that the tool of his trade was the Archive Box - having worked in an archive myself I can vouch for that.

Whilst we're on the subject of boxes/folders/acid free papers & envelopes etc etc - For anyone with the slightest hint of a stationary (or storage) fetish I would highly recommend the Preservation Equipment Limited (PEL) catalogue!

Costume Capers

On my way back to the Art College I dropped by the Utopia Costumes shop on Perth Road. I'd chatted to Kirsty on the phone a few times and exchanged several emails so it was good to finally meet up in person. Julia was also working that day and we three got to chatting about favourite costumes. When I asked about their favourite outfit both replied in unison 'Marie Antoinette'! Let's take a look then - Julie didn't take much persuading to put it on. The pleated ribbon detail looked really good and the fabric had a pleasing weight to it. Give us a twirl!


When it came to the tools of their trade Kirsty reached for a copy of the make-up artists bible - a 'How-To' on creating convincing wounds caught my eye! It made me think of an art work by Simon Costin (Scar 2) in which he is covered head to foot in fake wounds, cuts and sores of every description you can imagine - It makes for compulsive viewing!


Talking of viewing Julie told me the tool of her trade was her eyes - watching and reading people, assessing peoples body/personality types and pairing the customer with the right outfit. Both mentioned people skills as a crucial tool (Gordon mentioned the same, I remember - key to every Costumer perhaps!)

Cooper & McKenzie

My research into Dundee's tailoring scene led me to Cooper & McKenzie (est. 1874). Its situated on Reform Street (which was known as the Saville Row of the north by the way).

I was welcomed to the store by Grant Mitchell who runs this family business. Grant Mitchell's grandfather took over the business in 1946 (combining McKenzie with the local Furrier Coopers and the Ltd Co. was born). As I stepped into the office I saw all manner of objects and images that spoke of the Mitchell's history of clothing the city's mensfolk. These scissors for instance sitting on the desk (belonged to his granddad - still in use - and if you look closely you can see them in the B&W photo below!).


Grant had a leather case full of archival materials which he's been wisely gathering over the years. Collecting Cooper & McKenzie newspaper advertisements, letters, labels and logos, photos of the store and its staff over the years.


I really enjoyed seeing the shift in layout styles, fonts, suit cuts and styles. There were a couple of real James Bond's in there (Roger Moore stylin'!)

In one newspaper ad you can see three tailors pictured sitting/sewing on the floor - the caption next to it reads:
"16 workers put 18 hours handwork into every McKenzie Tailor-Made Overcoat - English Velour & Heavy Scotch Saxony Coatings, full lined Art Satin price £5 5/-"


Grant was tremendously generous with his time and we sat and chatted in the store's Courtesy Room amongst tartan sample books, rails of kilts and suit jackets. Joining his father in the company in 1985 he talked me through the many changes and challenges of running a menswear business - knowing and understanding your market, focusing on your key strengths and expertise in the field. He described the massive shop refit that happened in the 90's and took me on a tour around the building taking in the suit storage space, alteration room and two sales floors.
Lots of information to digest and Grant has kindly invited me back to spend more time with the archive and chat with the staff.

I asked Grant what the tools of his trade were - from two pockets he produced the items he always carried with him: specially adapted scissors (a customized beveled edge - tip passed on by his grandfather), tape measure and tailors chalk - Grant then presented me with a fresh piece of chalk as a memento of my visit - classic triangular shape with the maker H.H. Hancock's logo pressed into its centre.

All the world's a stage - an afternoon @ Utopia Costumes

I'd been hearing from a variety of sources that the Utopia Costume warehouse in Forfar was a treat for any costume addict. It really was an Aladdin's cave of treasures.


It was snowing like crazy in the hills as i took the 22A cross country bus via Glamis over to Forfar. This must be a really scenic route on a clear day but it was fair blowing a blizzard this Wednesday.

Gordon Philip (who co-directs the business with Ewan Campbell) and I had met briefly before at Utopia's Perth Street shop in Dundee way back in October '09 (when i made my first research trip). It was excellent to meet him again and learn more about their costume business and news of recent projects. Utopia premiered their latest costume project Beauty & the Beast at The Kings, Edinburgh - Utopia's team produced all the costumes and full accessories for a cast of 70 performers. During my visit this show was being boxed up in large crates in the loading bay to go out on tour.

Gordon and I chatted about the skills, time and techniques that are needed to produce the costume pieces in their collection - knowledge of tailoring, beading/embroidery, millinery, corsetry, constructing hidden structural supports, harnesses and padding. The pieces also have to be versatile in terms of their sizing. Often the costumes have adjustable panels and lacing to be drawn in/loosened depending on the performers shape and size as the costumes are hired out to different theatres and companies. Any guesses on which show this wrack of costumes belongs to?


Staff were popping in and out to get hot coffees and teas as it was a chilly day and the warehouse was chilly too. I'm looking forward to a second visit, hanging out by the kettle for some further creative chat. The best office conversations happen by the 'water cooler' they say - well at Utopia I reckon it'll be in the kitchen area near the shelves of wigs.

Space is a premium and the warehouse is full to bursting with approx 25,000 costumes and accessories. No space is left unused - check out these beautiful feather fans over the doorway in the accessories department.


Gordon showed me one of his favourite pieces a military jacket with tails - naval possibly? With incredible hand embroidered metal thread work. This was a real collectors piece and also weighed a tonne (well quite a few kilos). After a while you can get rather overwhelmed by the rails and rails of costumes. Perhaps it's a bit like testing too many perfumes at once - you have to take your time with these things. So, I look forward to going back there and having another session pulling out a few gems and also asking each member of staff if they have a particular favourite and why.

I asked Gordon about the tools of his trade - he said that being good with people was a vital skill to have in your Costumers 'Kit Bag'. I argee with him there. Also he spoke about his particular interest in structural props and harness making - so a harness was a key work related object or tool of his trade.

Well a hugely enjoyable few hours and the first meeting of many with Utopia I hope....

Halley Stevensons waxedcotton.com

I love a good factory tour and Halley Stevensons certainly didn't disappoint.

To begin with Andy Young kindly gave me a brief introduction to the company's history and relatively recent shift in focus towards waxed cotton production. He showed me the company's latest product lines - representatives of the company are just back from Paris & Milan trade shows where they were presenting their diverse waxed cotton and waxed silk products to designers of outdoor wear.


Infact here's a garment test/sample Andy showed me that menswear designer Nigel Cabourn (whose lines are often inspired by vintage military apparel) produced with Halley Stevenson waxed cotton.


The rolls of fabric had such a variety of weights and textures - they are definitely materials to feel and scrunch up and wax treated cottons just get better with wearing and aging - a bit like a leather jacket or old leather chair they mold and fit to the user. The waxed silk felt incredible to touch and the Beeswax treated cloth was a firm favourite.

Ever the nerd I was totally intrigued by the Laboratory! This is where fabric dyes and wax mixes are developed. Sadly the lab team were away the day I visited so I do hope I can catch them next visit. I wonder if I'll get to wear a white lab coat and goggles (yes please!)


Andy showed me the vast machines that dye, wash and wax the huge rolls of cotton textile.
The machines were all a stunning 1950's style minty green colour! (freshly painted Andy reported) Its an impressive operation which the company are understandably keen to keep a trade secret so no pictures of those textile treatment processes! Halley Stevenson is only one of four companies world wide that produces waxed cotton cloth so they are a highly specialised niche industry. The noise of the machinery meant talking wasn't so easy so I nodded and smiled with staff. I'm going to return in a few weeks to meet folk in the works Canteen where hopefully we'll get a chance to chat over lunch.

Part of my tour took in the factory Mill Shop which sells a great variety of furnishing fabrics and interiors textiles. There I met Linda and Nancy, who as well as working for Halley Stevensons work freelance as curtain makers and dressmakers (we exchanged business cards). I'll be returning to the Mill Shop soon to spend a little time between customer sales and enquiries exchanging stories and work experiences. Linda's tool of her trade are a "decent pair of scissors". I think amongst the tailors that's gonna come up again and again.

Apparently a number of Costumers use some of the shops bold, heavier weight fabrics to great effect on stage. I can see that and I also have my eye on a roll of fabric that could work well for a sculptural skirt I've in the pipeline!

Look forward to coming back to get to learn more about the company and the people at Halley Stevensons. Thanks to Andy, Linda and Nancy for a warm welcome and an openous to the project.

Getting to know you....

Earlier this week I spent a really enjoyable few days in Dundee having meetings with a number of textile trade related businesses.

But first to get myself in the mood I met up with Innes Duffus, Archivist for the Nine Incorporated Trades of Dundee. He was hugely entertaining and a font of knowledge about the Nine Trades. Over a couple of coffees and cakes we chatted about all manner of things trade related and otherwise.

Innes spent his mechanical engineering apprenticeship at Wolseley Cars in Birmingham and as a Brummie lass myself we both enjoyed a chat about our old stomping grounds in the West Mids...

Both of us enjoyed a good natter taking all sorts of interesting digressions and I also left our meeting with a pile of reading to boot (Homework!) - about Weaving, the Linen Industry, Jute (of course!), the crafts of Dyeing, Tailoring and Baking.
It should perhaps be noted that in addition to a passion for cloth/textile my passion for cake comes close second! I've to check out Clarks (all night) Bakery apparently, and Innes recommended Goodfellow & Steven on Union Street - next trip for sure.

Anyway - as I'm hoping to collect trade related stories and examples of folks tools of their trade as I take a journey through Dundee's historical and contemporary working culture, I asked Innes to get me started:

The object or tool Innes most proudly associated with his trade skills in mechanical engineering (for the car industry) was a Van Norman Boring Bar - for re-drilling engine cylinders.


The tale about workers bringing in pots to gather fresh honey dripping through the ceiling rafters in a textile mill in Blairgowrie is, as they say, another story!!
Thanks Innes for all your top tales and tips - more next trip.

Artist WLTM

http://www.dundee.ac.uk/pressreleases/2010/prfeb10/art.htm