Monday 1 March 2010

Cooper & McKenzie


My research into Dundee's tailoring scene led me to Cooper & McKenzie (est. 1874). Its situated on Reform Street (which was known as the Saville Row of the north by the way).

I was welcomed to the store by Grant Mitchell who runs this family business. Grant Mitchell's grandfather took over the business in 1946 (combining McKenzie with the local Furrier Coopers and the Ltd Co. was born). As I stepped into the office I saw all manner of objects and images that spoke of the Mitchell's history of clothing the city's mensfolk. These scissors for instance sitting on the desk (belonged to his granddad - still in use - and if you look closely you can see them in the B&W photo below!).


Grant had a leather case full of archival materials which he's been wisely gathering over the years. Collecting Cooper & McKenzie newspaper advertisements, letters, labels and logos, photos of the store and its staff over the years.


I really enjoyed seeing the shift in layout styles, fonts, suit cuts and styles. There were a couple of real James Bond's in there (Roger Moore stylin'!)

In one newspaper ad you can see three tailors pictured sitting/sewing on the floor - the caption next to it reads:
"16 workers put 18 hours handwork into every McKenzie Tailor-Made Overcoat - English Velour & Heavy Scotch Saxony Coatings, full lined Art Satin price £5 5/-"


Grant was tremendously generous with his time and we sat and chatted in the store's Courtesy Room amongst tartan sample books, rails of kilts and suit jackets. Joining his father in the company in 1985 he talked me through the many changes and challenges of running a menswear business - knowing and understanding your market, focusing on your key strengths and expertise in the field. He described the massive shop refit that happened in the 90's and took me on a tour around the building taking in the suit storage space, alteration room and two sales floors.
Lots of information to digest and Grant has kindly invited me back to spend more time with the archive and chat with the staff.

I asked Grant what the tools of his trade were - from two pockets he produced the items he always carried with him: specially adapted scissors (a customized beveled edge - tip passed on by his grandfather), tape measure and tailors chalk - Grant then presented me with a fresh piece of chalk as a memento of my visit - classic triangular shape with the maker H.H. Hancock's logo pressed into its centre.

1 comments:

Dane Watkins said...

I'd like to see some of the old adverts. What an amazing place and incredible that he still uses the same scissors as his grandad. I don't think I've kept the same pair of scissors for more than a couple of years.

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